06.2.2009

八丈島旅行記 1日目

空港に着くと、すごく暑い・・・というわけでもなく、
東京と同じくらいのような気がした。
入り口にはたくさんのツアーガイドや宿の関係者が観光客を迎えに来ていた。
僕らはとりあえず空港の観光案内係の人に宿の場所を教えてもらい
観光地図を二種類手にとった。
八丈富士をバックに記念写真を撮って、
とりあえず歩いて宿まで行くことにする。
本当は宿の人に迎えに来てもらう電話を事前にしておかなきゃいけなかったのだが
見事に忘れていた、というより気づかなかった。
タクシーが良いとのことだったが、歩いてもそう遠くないだろうということで
歩いてみることにする。

空港の外に出ると、あたりはアロエやらハイビスカスやらビロウヤシがあちこちに生えていた。
日差しは強いけど、カラっとしていて、海風がとても気持ちよかった。

一つ気になったのは土が赤い、ということだった。
レンガ色といったほうがいいかもしれない。
やっぱり火山の影響で、土が赤いんだなと思った。
土というより、細かい礫になっていて、
溶岩石で庭を囲んでいる家も多かった。
野菜が育つかな、と思った。

人通りがほとんどなくて、車が通るのも稀だった。
道も大通りというのはほとんどなくて、だいたいが細くて頼りないような道だった。
地図を頼りにがしがし歩く。
途中で八丈ストアーというスーパーで休憩。
「オクラ」が「ねり」という名前で売られていた。
おにぎりとお茶を買う。
ミスターチルドレンの「星になれたらいいな」がかかっていた。
懐かしい曲だ。

現在10時半。
空港について1時間ちょっとだ。
着々と宿に近づいている。
近くの小学校では、1,2年生くらいの子供達がきゃっきゃっと校庭を駆け回っていた。
これからプールに入るらしく、若い男の先生が子供達を
プールへと追い掛け回している。

宿が近づく。
近所のおばあさんらしき人と挨拶をする。

ようやく宿につく。今回お世話になったのは、民宿「みどり荘」。
元気のいいおばちゃんが、「おそかったねぇ~」と迎え入れてくれた。
宿帳を書きながら、今年の客の入りについてだとか
島の天気だとか、そういうことを話した。
部屋に入って水着に着替える。
予定では底土という地区の海水浴場で遊んでから
お昼を食べて、そのままダイビングということになる。

早速歩いて、底土へ向かう。
あたりは背の小さいヤシのような植物が栽培されているのを
何回も見かけた。なんだろうと思って、後で宿のおばちゃんに聞いてみると
「フェニックス・ロベリニー(別名ロベ)」というヤシなのだそうだ。
八丈島では日本でのロベの生産の80~90%を出荷しているのだそうだ。
園芸・切り花用として売られるらしい。

道中、素敵な墓地を発見する。
漁港や海が遠くまで見渡せて、いい風が吹いている気持ちのいい場所だ。
若干迷いながら、ようやく底土海水浴場に到着する。
地図によるとこのあたりはお店が多くて、にぎやかな場所なのかなと思ったら
閑散としていた。

それもいいな、と思いながら海に入る。
思ったよりも冷たい。
白い砂浜のビーチではなく、黒くて粒の大きい砂浜で
大きい石がごろごろしている。
式根島もこんな感じだった。

透明度がすごく高くてきれいな海だ。
腰まで入っても、つま先がはっきり見えるくらい
透き通っている。
30分くらい泳いで、ちかくの海の家で昼ごはんにする。

海の家では中学生か、高校生くらいの子供達が働いていた。
頼りない感じだけど、一生懸命やっているという印象を受けた。
島の子供は真っ黒に日焼けしている。

迷いながらも僕はカレーライスを、
相方はなぜかアメリカンドックとフライドポテトを頼んだ。
時々、なんで?と思うことがあるけど、それもいいなと思った。
二人でちょっとずつ分け合って食べた。
どれも全部おいしかった。

タバコを吸おうとすると、水着のポケットにライターを入れっぱなしにして
泳いでいたことに気づいた。だから、当然火がつかない。
しょうがないからさっきの高校生に「ライターない?」と聞くと
厨房で働いていたおっちゃんがライターを貸してくれた。
やっぱりきれいに日焼けしていて、笑顔の似合う
気持ちのいいおっちゃんだった。

昼ごはんを食べて、海岸の日陰を選んで昼寝をする。
30分くらい眠って、体験ダイビングのお店から電話がかかる。
底土まで迎えに来てくれるとのことだった。

迎えに来たのは同い年くらいの男の人で
優しそうな感じの人だった。
車で、お店まで向かう。

簡単な説明と、チェックシートを記入してウェットスーツに着替える。
僕は大学時代に一度オーストラリアでダイビングをしたことがあって
それがすごく楽しかったから、今回相方をダイビングに連れて行ってあげたかった。
相方は、まだダイビングをやったことがなかったから
ウェットスーツを着ただけでテンションがあがっている。
再び車で底土へ向かう。

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